Romancing Iloilo the Second Time Around
October 12-15, 2006
I remember discovering myself being inclined to photography while being stationed in Camiguin Island way back in 1994. But then, my monthly allowance wouldn't just permit me to buy extra roll of films so I could experiment further. The passion was restrained to mere point-and-shoots only during occasions and any other events that needed to be documented. I always wanted travel photography and discover new things. Take photos of landscapes and beautiful sceneries, sunsets and sunrises. But the high costs of films, the film processing, and the expensive 2CR5 battery always drained my pocket. Sure, I was a proud owner of an SLR during those times when big cameras are pure luxury, but my poor buddy found itself most of the time being locked up inside the closet. Getting serious with a chosen hobby at that time seemed impossible to be reached out.
When I was in Iloilo, I started to feel in love with the place. Armed with my glorified point-and-shoot (that's my first SLR - everything automatic), I travelled across the island far and wide. I wanted to see seas, mountains, greens, and everything. I went to Estancia to photograph different kind of fish; I went to the island of Isla Higante in Carles just to see fancy clear waters; I braved Concepcion just to see the Tampisaw festival; I explored every detail of the Guimaras Island. I found myself falling for Iloilo.
Love conquers all, others may say. That was probably what it meant to me, when, as a resolute shutterbug, I decided to brave the high seas around my beloved Iloilo. I travelled from Iloilo to Capiz, crossed Masbate and Sorsogon. Then, Camarines Norte and Camarines Sur, Albay, way up there to CALABARZON. From Batangas to Mindoro, Romblon to Boracay, Boracay to Aklan mainland, Aklan to Antique, Antique to Guimaras, and finally back to Iloilo. That was my first romance.
Overtime, I got my own digital SLR. While in the process of getting the hang out of it, a friend from Norway challenged me to make a digital reshoot to places I had photographed in film. I hate to admit, but I'm afraid I must have already taken the challenge. It didn't take long and I had this headstart - a shorty itinerary for Iloilo. The mission: photograph old churches in Iloilo, colonial houses, and other sites with historical values.
Mr. Pablo Minto, this is just a prologue of a long digital journey...
My Iloilo travel was inauspicious when the big boss hesitated to approve my leave of absence. I let him understand the importance of claiming my renewed PRC license at the PRC office in Iloilo otherwise I couldn't make it to the next renewal that ironically had already passed came my birthday. I was so insistent that the big boss couldn't do anything other than to put his signature for approval. Yet, the dilemma didn't stop there when my girlfriend, who always read my mind by just looking straight right through my eye, hesitated. Her concern was more of the expenses that entail with the trip. She even told me that the PRC thing is just a covert of an ulterior motive. I started to believe she could really read my mind. I just couldn't read hers when she released some amount for my travel allowance.
The initial disapproval of the big boss and the girlfriend must have foreboded an untoward misfortune along the way. It started with a taxi travel from my house to the airport that lasted three hours instead of the 45 minutes average travel time. The ongoing dismantling of EDSA billboards being conducted by DPWH men caused monstrous traffic from Cubao until Taft Ave. I left home at 1pm and arrived at the airport more than two hours later. My departure was scheduled at 3:55pm. I almost wanted to blame the taxi driver for his stubbornness. I suggested to him earlier for an alternate route of EDSA to avoid the growing traffic congestion but he insisted his own. He didn't know that like him, I'm driving everyday, too.
The E-ticket blues
Before entering the departure entrance of the domestic airport, I let out my driver's license and the print out of the airline's transaction receipt sent to me through email. The printed email would also serve as my e-ticket. When I handed those to the guard, he asked for my plane ticket. Surprised, I still politely told him I'm using e-ticket and that he can read through the details of my flight at the computer print out for reference. He told me that was unacceptable and advised me to get an ''actual ticket'' from the ticketing office. It was crazy! Having been in the travel industry for quite a time, I knew pretty well how e-ticket should work. I had attended countless seminars about e-Ticket while it was still in its infancy. The concept of e-Ticket is to give flawless convenience to every e-Ticket holder. So there I was, who precisely knows how e-ticket should work, standing helpless in front of a guard who probably knew nothing about e-ticket. For that moment, I can't subjugate the guard anyway, so I decided to be doing the very awkward thing he told me to do so. Otherwise, what if he's really right and the procedure for e-ticketing had changed in time?
At the ticketing office, there was a long queue of passengers buying ticket. It was good that at least they provided one teller to accommodate those who already had booking reference numbers, etc. I left my driver's license as valid identification so they could process my transaction receipt. It was printed on an official Cebu Pacific paper. When I had it, finally, the (stupid - sorry) guard let me in.
Empty Bullet Shell for Amulet Purposes
At the check-in counter, I checked-in my backpack because it contained liquids like drinking water, hair styling gel, and shampoo that are not allowed to be hand carried inside the aircraft. I also checked-in my tripod that was later attached with a ''Fragile'' sticker, a decision that I regreted later. I then confirmed to the lady in charge at the check-in counter whether the email printout and the official transaction receipt I got from the ticketing office are two different thing or not. She replied, "No, Sir. They are both valid and any of them can be presented as ticket just fine.'' Damn! I wanted to get back into that guard. Had my time of departure not moved on 4:15pm, that guard should have watch out for me.
I paid my terminal fee and proceeded to the final security check. The security procedure was simply amazing for me seeing passengers removing their wristwatches, belt, wallets, and shoes!
...and my combat shoes?!!
I obliged to remove my combat shoes that I painstakingly put on some four hours back. I requested for a separate tray for it so it won't mess up with my camera, phones, wristwatch, belt, wallet and coin purse. The X-ray assistant commented, "Nice boots, Sir!" into which I replied, ''It's none of your business. That's only a pair of old and rugged combat shoes."
After I underwent body-frisking, a security guard brought all my stuff to the nearest police desk. Later did I found out that the X-ray operator had seen a spent cal. 380 bullet shell inside my coin purse that I was no longer aware of.
The ongoing security checking procedure behind me was stopped for awhile as the ''body-frisker'' was told to lead me into the lady officer's desk. I asked first for my pair of shoes but was declined. I asked for my belt and it was handed to me. I then walked a few steps towards the lady officer's desk. There was no carpet going there, so I messed up my white socks. Well, at least my jeans didn't fall off.
The lady officer examined me from head to foot and started raising questions like why I was wearing military boots. I told her that was only my personal preference. I was asked what had happened to my forehead. I told her it was a result of a cyst procedure some two weeks back. I was asked why I had thick knuckles. I introduced to her my martial arts affiliation and showed to her my expired ID. I was then asked why I possessed such spent shell. I told her about my professional affiliation and told her further that I just don't have any credentials to show off. I was also asked about the purpose of keeping such, I told her I was planning to buy an amulet at Quiapo and the empty bullet shell would be used as enclosure. I just didn't have the time to visit Quiapo so the empty bullet shell resides inside my coin purse for quite a time. Had they didn't give up on me, I could have mentioned a few big names but they released me anyway. The empty bullet shell was not even touched (so I could photograph later for this article). The lady officer even bid me a successful Iloilo trip.
As for the amulet thing, I don't really believe such thing and such was just a lame excuse to the investigator.
And by the way, only live ammunitions are not allowed onboard.
Frenzy Taxi
It was already past 5pm when I landed Iloilo. It took me another 30 minutes before I could get my entire luggage from the conveyor.
Outside the airport, there were lot of taxis waiting with unauthorized dispatchers barking here and there. When I get to a few of them, I was negotiated for a flat rate of P300. Some lowered it down to P250 or P200. I was pissed off. Why do they have to ask me flat rate when they are metered taxis anyway? Lintik! So much for this misfortune! I need to reverse this! I shouted within.
I walk further to the end of the airport and found a signage few meters outside. The sign read Metered Taxi. I walked to the sign and found one taxi waiting. True enough, the driver used the trip meter. I asked him to bring me to Lapaz Plaza. When we reached my destination, I was only billed 72 pesos. I handed him over a 100 peso bill and he was already very grateful to that. I was also hopeful his sincere smile would contravene the whole misfortunes I went through.
Lapaz Plaza
Memories...
I spent most of my time here before coming home from work, and even in the morning, if I still have enough time, I also pass here by before going to work. Being solitary in my life, I always enjoy watching promenaders as they glide in front of me. This is also the same plaza where my racer bike was stolen.
I walked to the mid-section of the plaza so I could take a couple of night shot in the area. When I brought out my tripod, I found out that the tripod had acquired dents and the tilt lever was unscrewed I can no longer put it back. I understand the Fragile sticker attached into it the earlier didn't serve its purpose. Don't cry over spilled milk, I just told myself.
Without any tripod to spare, I took a few night shots handheld.
I chose Lapaz more than any other place in Iloilo having been residing here some few years back. I know I would always feel home when I get to the place. I can just walk around and find it easily anything that I need.
From Lapaz Plaza, I walked to Pechopak for my dinner. My dinner consisted rice and chicken.
This is how the Pechopak look like in the evening, and to the right is the dinner I had eaten. I photographed the food using my Sony Ericsson K750i.
When I finished my dinner, I walked to Jereos St. to find my favorite internet cafe, Ross-Ron Internet Station. I found it, I was glad it still exists. I was online for two hours.
My accommodation was at the Q Hotel. It is not actually a hotel but rather a short-time motel. I was on a tight budget so a cheaper accommodation would suffice. I was surprised the rate didn't change in a few years. It's P170 for the first 3 hours and 50 pesos per succeeding hour.
Lapaz Plaza signifies a lot, when accommodation, internet station, affordable restaurant, and even the Gaisano mall, all are just a stone-throw away.
Jaro Plaza and Jaro Cathedral
It is the second day of my travel adventure. I started the day with a cold shower. I paid my bill so I could check out right away. Every minute counts and I knew I have had lots of things to do. I was only charged 470 pesos for a 9 hour stay of the Q Hotel. As a side note, I was glad Q Hotel (read: motel) are accepting single occupant. Those found at V. Mapa only accept customers in pair.
My friend Angelito met me at Lapaz Plaza. He told me he can lend me his Nissan X-trail provided I will fill it up when it will ran out of gas. That was a great idea but I ultimately turned down his generosity for several reasons. I was tight on budget and I’m sure I’ll spend more of the petrol costs than taking commute. Having your own car maybe a time saver, but more often than not, I am always in trouble looking for parking area that it in fact cost more of my precious time. By that time, I was tight on schedule, too. But the main reason I was not taking his offer is that because I’m not driving automatic transmission.
Angelito offered me a ride to Jaro but I declined telling him I missed Lapaz Plaza so much and I have to satisfy myself by roaming around and enjoy the cool morning. I thank him and assured that I can just take one jeepney ride to Jaro. He wished me good luck and left.
I took several shots of Lapaz Plaza and the two churches nearby, i.e. the PICC church and the Roman Catholic Church. After making a final round, I proceeded to Commission Civil St. that leads to Jaro Plaza. Along the way, I was taking photos of people, jeepneys, and anything that tickled my interest.
It was already 7 o’clock in the morning when I arrived at Jaro Plaza. The same thing that I did at Lapaz Plaza, I roamed around and take photos of the plaza at different angle. I also took photo with the old belfry. I then proceeded to the Jaro Cathedral, get inside to say a prayer and snap several photos in its interior. The Jaro Cathedral is among the churches in the Philippines that has its belfry separated from it, across the national highway and situated in Jaro Plaza. Historically, the belfry was used as a lookout tower for sea raiders. The historical marker of the church states, that Philippine hero Graciano Lopez-Jaena was baptized there. Jaro Cathedral is also the first and only cathedral in Panay built in 1864. One of its high points in Panay's history was the visit 
of Pope John Paul VI, conducting a mass in 1982. Like what I always did to most church, I again took my customary symmetrical shot of the church interior. Several photos were also taken outside including a full view of the church. I then proceeded to the nearest Jollibee in the place for my breakfast.
One important thing that I failed to visit and photograph though is the Madonna and child which is situated at the veranda or balcony at the front of the Jaro cathedral. The icon is approximated to be life size. It is encased in glass and is dressed in typical cape. It has a large white choker around its neck. Catholic devotees believed that the image is miraculous and is originally sheltered further up in a small niche atop the church front. Over the years, the icon is believed to have grown in size, and when it could no longer fit the niche, it had to be brought down, hence its current location. The stairway that leads up to the balcony was close at that time. I was sure it would be opened up later of the day.
When I made my final round of the plaza to snap a few shots to those old colonial houses of sugar barons and Hispano-Filipino houses of the elite during the Spanish era, I spotted a bigger eatery of the famous Andok’s Litson. Somewhat I regretted to be going to Jollibee promptly. Andok’s Litson is my favorite, too. I just didn’t expect that an Andok’s branch had already invaded the place. It was not around during my care-free days.
When it was 15 minutes before 8 in the morning, I proceeded to the regional office of the Professional Regulation Commission (PRC). I shouldn’t forget this was the alibi I made to my boss so he would grant me a leave of absence. It was just timely when I arrived at the office because there were very few people yet, mostly young professionals and would-be-professionals that are taking exams or were checking the result of their examination.
It didn’t take me long doing my business. I got my PRC license in more or less 30 minutes. I walked back towards Jaro Plaza to take another jeepney that would bring me to my next destination.
San Joaquin Church and San Joaquin Cemetery
From Jaro Plaza, I took a jeepney with sign Leganes-SM Highway. This route would pass by JC Aquino Avenue so it's easier for me to transfer to another jeepney bound for San Joaquin. I paid only 7 pesos to that Leganes jeepney.
Luckily, it didn’t take me long to wait for a San Joaquin jeepney. San Joaquin is an hour trip or 53 kms. from Iloilo City and the farthest town in the Iloilo province. . Except for one broken bridge that we passed by, the highway is considerably smooth so the ride was simply easy. Actually, the problem I encountered with this adventure was the cellular phone signal. When I hit the boundary outside Iloilo, I lost Sun Cellular signal. Even my network signal to Globe worked sporadically.
Ilonggos, as what people in Iloilo are called, are always known to be very hospitable. I was seated next to the driver and he started a good conversation. In fact, he started to speak to me in Tagalog when he took noticed of my shabby Hiligaynon. We reached San Joaquin before 10 o'clock. I asked the driver if the jeepney route is passing the church. He told me it is not but he voluntarily told me he can drop me by so I don’t need to take a traysikad (pedicab). In our earlier conversation, I told him I would be photographing churches. Transportation from Iloilo City to San Joaquin only costs 50 pesos.
In a few more minutes, I was already standing in front of the San Joaquin old church. I was amazed at seeing how obviously old it is and how it is able to stand throughout the ages. I have had my earlier internet research about the place and this is the information I had lifted from this link verbatim: http://www.admu.edu.ph/offices/mirlab/panublion/r6_sanjoaq.html
The church is built of coral stone quarried from Igbaras, and is flanked by a three story bell tower to its right and the ruins of a building, probably the convento to its left. The bell tower, however, is now damaged and the upper most story, a construction in reinforced concrete. The two stories of the façade are uneven in height, the second being about one-half the dimension of the first. The first story is decorated with rosettes and divided vertically by engaged columns on tall plinths like Guimbal. Composite capitals crown the columns. A plaque above the arched portal displays the Augustinian seal flanked by cherubs. The second story is plain compared with the lower floor. The façade's striking feature, however, is the disproportionately large pediment. When Fr. Santarén was still building the church news of the victory of Gen. Leopoldo O'Donnel over the Moroccan Crown Prince Muley Abbas reached Iloilo. The Spaniards recaptured Tetuan. Santarén's low relief mural captures the excitement of victory where cavalry and infantry are tearing down Moorish defense, near palms and a minaret. The troops are composed in an ascending spiral with figures of horse and rider becomes smaller the higher they reach. Spaces between the figures are filled with vegetation. The title of the composition "Rendición de Tetuan" is carved at the base of this animated relief.
Okay, that’s enough for that lifted story. After taking a few shots at different angles, I hailed an approaching traysikad and asked the driver to bring me to the old San Joaquin Cemetery. It was a little bumpy ride of a traysikad running on municipal streets with pot holes along the pavement. In less than five minutes, we arrived at the cemetery. Drivers are not only sweet lovers, they are also full of surprises, too! When I inquired for my fare, the driver replied, “Ikaw na ang bahala.” (It’s all up to you). This is weird, I thought to myself. What if I’ll only give you one peso? Seriously, it was not funny. Anyway, I handed him four 5 peso coins to make it sure I give him more than enough. Later, I learn from the cemetery folks that minimum traysikad fare is only 5 pesos.
The cemetery is really impressive with its design very rarely seen. During my stay in Iloilo, I had never visited this cemetery. I had been to San Joaquin on several occasions but never been into this place. Since I was already standing at the very place, I satisfied myself with lots of shots, after which, I backed off to the highway and waited for another jeepney to take me to Miag-ao.
Here’s my note about the San Joaquin cemetery, lifted from the same link above. The San Joaquin Cemetery (1892), one of a number built in Iloilo province during the 19th century, is located along the highway leading to the town. Built on a low rise, the cemetery's square perimeter is demarcated by a wrought iron fence and shored by a wall of carved stone, embellished with niches and saints. A flight of 20 steps leads up to the cemetery compound. The octagonal structure at the compound's center is a mortuary chapel, where it was customary to bless the dead. The chapel is decorated with Classical motifs. A pointed dome crowns the whole structure.
Miag-ao Church
From San Joaquin, I took an Iloilo-bound jeepney for Miag-ao. I arrived at the municipality of Miag-ao in more or less 10 minutes. I paid 10 pesos for the transportation.
The church is just right there beside the highway, about 40 kms. away from Iloilo City.
Miagao Church' sandstone facade rises out of its surroundings to grab you by your visual senses and keep you staring at "the most Filipino” among the country's historic churches. Its most outstanding feature is its pediment, on which is carved a relief of coconut, banana, papaya trees and stylized guava fruit. Built in 1786 and was declared as national landmark in 1973, Miag-ao Church is now in UNESCO's World Heritage List.
If you’re reading this article online, most likely clicking the link will lead you to another website,http://miagao.tripod.com/church/church.htm. The link gives detailed information about the church. I found this link over the internet a few days back while I was planning my Iloilo travel.
Guimbal
I decided to eat my dinner in Miag-ao. While on my way looking for a nearest eatery or refreshment parlor, I passed by an internet café. I went inside for a few minutes to check emails, after which, I proceeded to the nearest refreshment parlor. The time was past 11 in the morning. Next destination was Guimbal, 29 kilometers southwest of Iloilo city proper.
Transportation from Miag-ao to Guimbal is only 12 pesos. Any Iloilo-bound jeepney would do. It took me only more or less 10 minutes to reach the next destination. Along the way, I passed by Virginia Bridge but missed to take it a photo simply because it was out of my itinerary. Sometimes I would wish I accepted Angelito’s Nissan X-trail so I could stop in between my destination. Unfortunately for him, getting his SUV means getting him as my driver of the day as well.
Virginia Bridge is now known as Guimbal Steel Bridge. The bridge is constructed during the American period. The construction was ordered by US President Roosevelt. It is approximately 0.350 kilometers long and made of Pittsburgh Steel, which were imported from Virginia, USA. I’ve heard from sources that it is the longest steel bridge in Western Visayas.
Finally, I arrived at the famous Guimbal Church. It looks magnificent as always. I had been here in the past for several occasions but never remember seeing the photo I had taken here. I probably must have lost the film.
The church is famous for its Spanish architecture, built of adobe stones called igang and coral stones quarried from Guimaras. This church was constructed through force labor or folio imposed by the Spanish friars during the Spanish colonial period. It has undergone some reconstruction after it was destroyed twice, during the Second World War and during the 1948 earthquake. Presently it was rehabilitated to its original structure.
Guimbal Plaza, known for its beautiful ornamental plants and landscapes, is described by many as the little Luneta of southern Iloilo. It is well-maintained and well-lighted at night. It can be likened to an European labyrinth.
Another thing I didn't want to miss is the Guimbal Watchtower or referred to as the Moro Watchtower or “bantayan” in the local dialect. Originally, there were four structures located in different sites along the shoreline area in the poblacion. Only three are still intact and renovated to its original condition through the Department of Tourism. These “bantayan” are the 17th Century structures used as look-out for raiding Moro pirates. Like the church, these were also constructed through force labor.
For fast mobility, I hired a tricycle. Actually, the watchtower is just a walking distance away from the church but I didn’t want to mess up with my schedule. I still have lots of places to go. I asked the driver to wait for me since it won’t take long and I’d be heading back to the highway. He waited and after taking a few snaps around the place, I climbed back again to his tricycle so he could send me to the highway.
To my astonishment, I heard from him the same line I had heard from the traysikad driver in San Joaquin when I inquired about my fare. “Ikaw na ang bahala.” I almost believe somebody must have oriented these drivers to utter such lines to any individuals with big cameras. Or maybe it is just in their instincts that anybody who sling big cameras is lord whom their remuneration of the day are being entrusted. I gave him a 20-peso bill anyway. I know that was far more than enough, but I know that was all he expected. If a few extra peso can brighten up his day, why not?
Tigbauan
Guimbal and Tigbauan are just 7 pesos away. 7 pesos, you read it right. In between these two focal points is Racso’s Woodland. Another would-be destination have I had sufficient time. An internationally-known inland resort, it is a theme park for nature lovers. A sprawling oasis of trees, flowering plants, shrubs, birds and marine and ground, animals that blends well with modern amenities. They also have mini-hotel to cater those who prefer to spend the night with. I had been in the place twice. During my second visit, we had a photoshoot here with my companion. During that time, I wished that my honeymoon be accommodated into that place. Again, I wished Angelito and his SUV is with me.
Tigbauan, I was told before, was named after Tigbao, a local name for a type of grass that used to swarm the countryside. Tigbauan, a coastal town, was one of the landing sites for American Forces led by General Douglas MacArthur in March 1945 for liberation of the Philippines from the Japanese in World War II.
Tigbauan Church is 22 kms. southwest of Iloilo city proper. It is the site of first Jesuit school for boys in the Philippines established in 1592. Other than that, I didn’t have much information about the Tigbauan church during my stay in Iloilo, so while preparing for this trip, I surf the web and found this link:
http://www.admu.edu.ph/offices/mirlab/panublion/r6_tigbauan.html
The photo below will let you see the emphasis of its baroque façade.
One Tigbauan folk told me that the Sto. Niño image of the parish church of Tigbauan was stolen last November 2004. The image, worth about P500, 000 was considered as among the oldest in the country since it was built in the 15th century. That was just too bad.
When I took another jeepney going back to Iloilo, I happened to pass by Panay Liberation Marker situated between Oton and Tigbauan. The marker commemorates the American liberation of Panay Island from the Japanese invaders in March 18, 1945. I always passed by in that place before but wasn’t able to take photos. Then again, I wished Angelito and his SUV is with me so I could drop by into that place.
Molo Church
It was another fifteen minutes jeepney travel from Tigbauan to Molo, passing Oton and several Iloilo municipalities. I could have passed by La Villa de Arevalo (known as the flower village in Iloilo) had Angelito and his SUV is with me. Anyway, my goal is to take photos of the Molo church, which is why, I was decisive to be going straight to Molo. All jeepneys and buses coming from the Southwestern part of Iloilo must pass by Molo so I knew I was on the right track.
Molo is known as the Chinese quarters of Iloilo during Spanish times. Molo Church is called the Church of St. Anne, which looms above the old Chinese district of Molo. Its towering gothic design distinguishes it from the typical baroque-influenced churches in the country.
While I was employed as warehouseman of the most prestigious warehousing and logistics company in Iloilo, I remember one of the laborer telling me a story about Molo during one of our lunch gathering. His story goes like this: The reason why the town is called "Molo." It is because people used to seek refuge in that place during times of war. It was a Chinese district and every time the Moros would arrive, they would yell out in warning "Moro! Moro!", but of course, the Chinese could not pronounce the 'r' and said "Molo" instead. That is why it's called Molo. I'm not sure how true that is.
Anyway, I stayed in the place for quite sometime because I got a Sun Cellular signal. I sent my girlfriend a text message so she could return a call. She phoned me up right away. And just like any girlfriend would interrogate, she asked me whether I had eaten my lunch, where and when; my present location; my next destination; how I was doing; and anything a girlfriend that care so much would nag for. That was just only 3 in the afternoon so I told her that my next destination is the Plaza Libertad.
Actually, just across the plaza, I can always see that old house in colonial architecture but having known nothing about such house, I didn’t dare getting near to it. My focus was more of the Plaza Libertad.
Plaza Libertad
After I spoke with my girlfriend over the phone, I hailed another jeepney bound for city proper. Fare is only 7 pesos. At the city proper, I transferred to another jeepney with signboard Jaro-CPU, a route passing by the plaza. I paid another 7 pesos.
Plaza Libertad is a wooded plaza, improved during the 20th century with the addition of benches and Classical statuary. The Old World look of the plaza has been greatly degraded, but in its heyday, it was one of Iloilo's charms.
After taking a few photos and an ice cream break, I decided to while the time away. While my phone indicated full strength, I couldn’t place a call or even send text message. I was also thinking of climbing back again (for the nth time) the tower of the Bureau of Customs Building so I could take a good view of Muelle Loney and the whole city of Iloilo. With telephoto lens, that must be an awful experience. While I was delighted with the idea, I gave it a second thought. I risked my film SLR before with the guards because I can hide that SLR with my ordinary shoulder bag. But not 
this time, with the full Canon digital system, I know I can be mistaken to be something and to be somebody. So I was thinking it was not worth risking my whole photography equipment for future security confiscation that may happen. My sound judgment told me to proceed to Fort San Pedro though it was still too early. My plan for Fort San Pedro is to take a sunset shot, eat my dinner, and make a few night shots. Another Jaro-CPU jeepney took me to Fort San Pedro. Fare is again 7 pesos.
Fort San Pedro
As an overview, Fort San Pedro does no longer existed except for a few large stones facing the sea which were once part of a bastion of the quadrilateral fort. Built in 1616, against the Dutch and other invaders that threatened Iloilo, the fort was already in disrepair early in the 20th century, it deteriorated further due to neglect, and was totally damaged during World War II. Whatever remained was torn down to make way for a park. A lighthouse and image of the Christ marks the spot where the fort stood. The park is a favorite spot for taking in the evening air. Food stalls serve barbecue to park goers.
I let my camera do the talking here:
Well, there was no beautiful sunset then because the sky was overcast due to fickled weather condition. When it was getting darker and I supposed to get inside the park to look for my dinner, it started to rain. The rapid transition of brightness into darkness indicated a serious storm coming. So even before the rain could get stronger, I was already running to the opposite side of the road, to the direction going back to Lapaz.
Even before I could get to a jeepney, the rain was already very heavy. In a span of few minutes, Iloilo road was already flooded with rainwater. I was having a hard time deciding where to drop off. Of course, I wouldn’t want to wade in to that murky flood. Traffic was also getting heavier, and it was very hot inside the jeepney. In the absence of covering, rain enter the jeepney though from the front seats and the rear area. But I was thinking I was riding a Jaro-CPU jeepney so the farthest drop off point I could make is the Gaisano Mall in Lapaz. They have a different way and would not pass by Lapaz Plaza. It was timely that when the jeepney I was in got near to the Gaisano Shopping Mall, the rain slowed down. When the jeepney came to a full stop in one of the traffic congestion in front of the mall, I jumped off from the jeepney and proceed to the nearest pedestrian overpass that directly connects to the mall. There was no flood, and, at least, I made the right decision.
Gaisano Mall
Gaisano Mall is the second largest mall in the city, located in Bonifacio Drive, La Paz District. It is six floors tall, including the basement. It houses 5 cinemas. I roamed around for quite a time reminiscing past fortune and misfortunes in the place when I suddenly spotted a Netopia Internet Café station. I had my Netopia membership card valid to all branches across the country. So even, if it was 3 hours more before my original schedule of getting online (that was only 6 and I supposed to get online by 9pm) but since an internet station is already right there where I stand, I decided to call it a shot.
I checked mails, visited MIP to know the latest (MIP was on its transition to the new site at that time) and also view newly posted photos. I couldn’t focus though because when I became visible online with Yahoo IM, I was getting prompted with lots of friends who are presently stationed abroad. I thought I was online longer than usual but when I checked out, I was only charged 33 pesos. While in Netopia at SM Megamall, I mostly like would be paying closer to 100 pesos for the similar time spent.
I supposed to have my dinner at Mang Inasal, a newly opened chicken restaurant, so I can feel the Iloilo taste, but the music inside was loud, and I don’t necessarily need the loud music since my girlfriend would be calling me up. I tried fastfoods and other refreshment parlors like PanCake, etc, but they also played loud music. When I tried Chowking, there was no music, and I realized I was at the right place conducive for my expected phone conversation.
I ordered Hong Shiu Vegetable which was actually my first time of ordering it at Chowking. I was billed 109 pesos only.
I stayed there long and spoke with my wife, I mean, my girlfriend. She always initiate the call because she is subscribed to Sun Cellular’s Call and Text Unlimited while I am a Sun Cellular delinquent.
From Chowking-Gaisano, I took a Lapaz jeepney so I could go back to Q Hotel to check in.
The Duenas Funeral Mass
Saturday, October 14, was my third day of stay in Iloilo and the last day of my Iloilo old churches rundown. I woke very early and after taking my shower, I checked out from my accommodation and proceeded to Lapaz Plaza to wait for a Lapaz-Leganes jeepney that would take me to Tagbac Terminal. It didn't take another few minutes and I was already onboard a jeepney going to the bus terminal.
At Tagbac Terminal, I took a Passi-bound non-aircon bus. I was collected 30 pesos and arrived at Duenas before I knew it. I transferred to a tricyle that would take me up to Duenas Church which is located on a higher ground. The tricycle charged me for only 7 pesos.
While I was heading towards the church, I could see people at the church surroundings and a white hearse parked in front. I was getting hungry so I went to the nearest eatery. While I was eating, the owner of the eatery started a conversation so I told her that I visited their place just to take photo of the church. I learned that a funeral mass is ongoing, and if I would have to wait, I need to wait at least until 1 o’clock in the afternoon so I could get a better shot of the church - minus the crowd, minus the hearse. She told me three people would be given interment and the funeral service I had witnessed is the first.
I know I couldn’t wait that long. I warmed myself up by taking several landscape photos in the town plaza. I advanced further until I got near of the church with the hearse facing in front of me. I took a couple of shots when several curious individuals approached and started to annoy with my activity by raising uninteresting questions, like how I am related to the dead person in the church, etc. More people from the funeral group, I think, were coming in thus creating an awkward atmosphere in my part. When I got the chance, I hopped to a passing tricycle and asked the driver to send me to highway for a bus ride. The tricycle driver charged me only 6 pesos.
Another Funeral Service at Dingle
At the highway, I hailed an Iloilo-bound non-aircon bus from Passi City. I squeezed my way towards the driver so I could tell him directly to drop me by at crossing Tabugon. Crossing Tabugon is just very near from Duenas Highway that in just a short while we were already at the place. I was caught off-guard without a single penny to spare so I handed to the bus conductor a fifty-peso bill. The bus conductor returned two pieces of 20 peso bill towards me. Mindful of the distance travelled, I confirmed to the bus conductor the minimum bus fare. It turned out I was mistaken to be coming from Passi so I was collected 10 pesos. The bus driver grew impatient and yelled to his conductor. Surprisingly, the conductor shouted back to the old man. He added another 5 pesos to the change he gave me earlier, so all in all, I was only paying 5 pesos to the bus.
Only tricycle plies Tabugon and Dingle town proper so I was left with no choice. A tricycle was already at Tabugon waiting for passengers. Five passengers are required so the tricycle will go.
It didn’t take much time and the tricycle became full. Since I had two baggage with me, my backpack half-filled with clothing and my Canon camera bag with the broken tripod still attached into it, I chose to take the drivers back seat together with another male passenger. The driver back seat has more room for my baggage as compared to inside the cab.
Along the way, a mother and a child obviously waiting for a ride flagged as down. I didn’t take it seriously until the driver slowed down and came to a full stop right in front of them. I was puzzled as to where should the driver accommodate those new passengers. Surprisingly, the seemingly 7-year old girl automatically climbed up to the top of the roof. The mother also automatically squeezed herself between me and the driver. She was seated at the petrol tank. So, the driver was already standing on the foot rests, sticking his head out of the roof while leaning forward bracing himself against the handle bar. For a moment, I couldn’t think how this driver-turn-stuntman would be able to shift gear, hit the brake pedal, and steer his tricycle. Yet, he still could drive it with ease. He still was able to shift up to 4th gear and move at a speed of 50 kph. Later I found out that the tricycle is powered by Yamaha RXT 135.
The driver was revving like a real daredevil. I was never happy. I recalled I can do better than what the man is doing, I can stand on top of a moving motorcycle, and, at least, if such is too daring enough, I'm only endangering myself and not with any other person to be getting involved. I was about to yell to the driver, “Hey, you put my photography equipments into much danger!” I was about to utter such words when a second thought negated me to do so. What a shame had I didn't give it a second thought. I should be more concern of other people’s lives more than selfishly thinking of my own photography equipments.
This tricycle story doesn’t end up there. When we pass by another fellow waiting for a ride, the driver stopped for him. I guessed the passenger would ride the side wheel, and I was right. By that time, I thought of taking the situation a few photos using my phonecam. Not good at that point, these are just the two photos I got.
That's the passenger riding on top of the side wheel while supporting his balance through the roof railings. To the right, that's the stunt driver (in camouflage) already standing and sticking his head out of the roof to gave way to the woman passenger a space to sit over the petrol tank.
It was like a "Game Over" when we reached the town proper. I was thankful nothing bad happened along the way. I asked the driver to send me to the old church. He only collected me 10 pesos but I gave him 20, another 10 pesos for that unsolicited roller-coaster ride.
I was only a few steps towards positioning myself in front of that old Dingle church when I saw another hearse, this time, a gray hearse. I didn't want to believe I was having a bad Saturday. I inquired a few folks as to the number of dead bodies to be given a funeral service. I was told there are four. Still, not a bad Saturday, really. The harum-scarum ride had nearly counted me the fifth for interment – the worst thing to happen :(
Here's a quick note for Dingle that I lifted from this link: http://www.exploreiloilo.com/dingle-church.html
Dingle Catholic Church Built in1886, this church of Baroquial style is made of limestone from Bulabog Mountain, painstakingly carried by the early parishioners through narrow, steep and dangerous trails to the present site. The Dingle Catholic Church remains a landmark of Dingle and a symbol of human ingenuity.
Pototan
Because I made a few research before I step outside for this adventure, I was always very sure I could always save time by cutting short of my trip. Normally, anybody who will be going to a place like Janiuay coming from Dingle will take a jeepney going to Jaro and from Jaro, he will take another jeepney bound for Janiuay. In my case, that's a waste of time and I'm sure to end up not reaching out my goal, that is, to photograph old churches in Iloilo province. I assured myself that I know what to do.
The shortcut way of going to the eastern part of Iloilo without the need of going back to Jaro is through a tricycle from Dingle to Pototan. I anticipated for another roller-coaster ride. I felt sorry to be judgmental. It is only that I usually discouraged anything that goes beyond standard procedure. True enough, the next tricycle driver behaved the same way as the first tricycle driver. Since I wasn't able to take a photo of the whole thing, I have to picture it out this way. The speed-freak driver with his TMX-powered tricycle squeezed the throttle to the limit that we were moving 80 kph., even overtaking those slow-moving jeepneys and trucks in the highway. Tricycles are basically not allowed in the highway, but how can I refute if that is their way of living? Given that we were moving on a highway not really meant for three-wheeled passenger vehicle, at least, the driver should be careful not to exceed with the maximum payload of his tricycle. On the contrary, he was performing the same stunt as to my first tricycle driver, load one passenger at the side wheel, load two grown up adult on top that eventually would hamper the balancing capability of that three-wheeled vehicle. And then, we were moving at a speed more than what a three-wheeled vehicle can be stabilized. While I contemplated on these things, I realized I also go beyond the standard procedure when doing D&S (drive and snap photography), so I was losing the authority to object to his behavior. I didn't want to think much about it that I diverted myself into thinking some other things. I was running short of time for my Iloilo stay and that was my utmost concern. By the way, we reached Pototan safely and 12 pesos was all the thrills' worth.
Janiuay
Pototan is known to be the most decorated Iloilo town during Christmas season. In fact, just last year, Pototan was known to have the largest Christmas tree in the country. Other Pototan highlights are the wide and clean municipal plaza, the dome coliseum, the new municipal market, etc. I was almost tempted to stop by Pototan for awhile but then I realized my very purpose - taking photos of old churches.
The fare from Pototan to Janiuay is only 18 pesos. It was no longer a tricycle this time. Pototan to Janiuay was only 45 minutes or so. I asked the driver to drop me by right in front of the church but was turned down for some traffic regulation reason. The driver instead advised me to just make a quick walk which actually would not cost much of my time. And he was right. In three minutes, after I climb down from the jeepney, I was already in front of the old church of Janiuay.
To my dismay, that was not the old church that I used to be seeing before. I saw that a new structure is presently built over the old one. That's very unfortunate, but who decided for it can not be blamed. Restoration costs of old buildings and structures are just simply insurmountable as compared to building a new and modernized structure. The issue depends on what is it to be given the topmost priority.
According to my source, the Janiuay Catholic Church was built of sandstone, lime stone and layered bricks and was completed in February 1770. Its belfry used to carry three magnificent bells, the largest weighing close to a ton. WWII damaged the belfry and the bells were lowered to ground after the war. The largest bell crashed down during the relocation and suffered a crack 18 inches in length from its lip upwards. When sounded it gives a distinct baritonic rattling sound that can be heared for miles. It was mounted in the the new church's belfry built in the late 60s.
These are the photos I had taken so far:
Sand stone, lime stone, and layered bricks were permanently replaced with the commercially available cement. Galvanized sheets also become the new fixture in placed for its original roofing. The photo to the right shows the old belfry of the old church.
Another heritage infrastructure in Janiuay is its ancient Catholic cemetery. It was built much later in 1870 and is also walled with ancient sandstone and bricks brought from distant locale some 30 kilometers away in what is now known as the town of Dingle to which I already visited. This cemetery has a Gothic-theme design, making it one of the most artistic cemeteries in the Philippines. Renowned for its architectural grandeur, it was once featured in the pages of National Geographic magazine. The cemetery is located a kilometer east of Janiuay Catholic Church, of which I happened to pass by coming from Pototan. Every time I arrived into this place, I was always coming from Jaro, so it was supposedly to be the first time visiting the cemetery had I made a stop.
From Janiuay, I took another jeepney that brought me to Cabatuan.
Cabatuan
I was already on my way back to Iloilo City. According to my list, I still have three more places to go, i.e. Cabatuan, Sta. Barbara, and Pavia. It was just lunch time yet, anyway.
The fare from Janiuay to Cabatuan is only 10 pesos. The two towns are actually just a few kilometers apart. I know that the jeepney I was riding in would really pass by directly in front of the church so I didn't have much problem about walking a short distance. Up in the sky, I can see clouds that forebode incoming rain.
As I was getting near the church, I saw another hearse park in the church front. I was given the impression that people in Iloilo are dying everyday. Just across the street is a makeshift (or maybe permanent?) jeepney terminal with lots of people so I didn't hesitate to ask about the funeral service. One town folk answered that it was only the third and there are two more coming. I realized my day was very much challenged with funeral services. But then I cannot just wait for all the funeral services to be finished so as to clear the front of the church.
Back in the town plaza, I was trying to locate a good vantage point so at least the hearse couldn't be included in the photo. But then, besides the hearse, motorcycles and SUVs were also parked just in front of the church, and across the street, an owner type jeep and a passenger jeepney were also present totally blocking the whole view of the church. A burger kiosk is also a permanent fixture at the left side. I was wondering how to remove all of those obstructions.
Feeling defeated, I backed off farther until I could see the entirety of the church structure. Of course, the obstructions were always present but I comforted myself by telling that I'm not taking an official church photograph anyway.
From my vantage point, which is actually almost in the middle of the plaza, I could see that the photo is still good, and in fact, is no longer skewed at 18mm focal distance. I satisfied myself with a few shots in different camera settings. My final shot made me feel good. With a shutter speed of only 1/100 sec. handheld plus aperture opening of f/5.6, I was getting the photo quality that I wanted. Well, it was not really the photo that I wanted considering the absence of the blue sky and cotton-white clouds. Without those elements, an outdoor photo always appear bland. Yet, such dilemma didn't cause me much apprehension. I can later infuse Windows XP sky to those photos, anyway.
A closer look of the neo-classical church built in 1880s, minus the hearse :)
Based from the information resource that I got from the Internet (this is the link), Cabatuan does not only boasts about its aged-old church but other old sites as well, like the Japanese fortification and the Cabatuan Catholic Cemetery to name a few. The cemetery is said to be completed in 1894. I won't go into much detail about this as I myself decided to cancel the visit of these sites. In a few more minutes, rain fell down that I had to ran to take the nearest shelter. I happen to get inside a Sari-sari Breadstore. It was raining so hard then that I was literally trapped inside the shop. I wanted to transfer a place to where I can eat proper lunch but it is impossible for me to be getting out from my present shelter without getting wet. I was getting hungry so I decided to momentarily have my snacks right there. The rain didn't stop right away. I waited for three hours inside the shop before the rain completely stopped. When the rain gave way a short while, I hopped in to the first multicab that passed by bound for Sta. Barbara. It costed me only 11 pesos.
Sta. Barbara
When I jumped off from the multi-cab, I saw a hearse right away parked at the church yard. It was already past 4 in the afternoon so I surmised that would be the last funeral service. I didn't want to waste my time so I silently roamed around without pulling up my camera. I didn't want people to be alarmed. Besides, I didn't want to compromise my photography equipments with the continuing rain.
Sta. Barbara Church with the hearse in its front door. I was using my Sony Ericsson K750i to take this photo.
My link told me about several tourist attraction in this town yet I decided to stay put while the rain continued. I decided to while the time away by visiting the museum. I had been into Sta. Barbara countless of times in the past so I just felt the place like home. I was comfortable moving around the place.
The rain completely stopped before I went out from the museum. The first site that attracted my attention is the monument of Gen. Delgado. I took a shot of the monument and proceed to roam around the plaza. As a result, I got several photos that I share below.
Youngsters who are willing enough to return their smile to you...
This municipal bandstand was constructed in 1925. It has served as a stage for bands and musicians, political rallies, religious programs, as well as cultural shows and contest since the American era.
The monument of Gen. Martin Teofilo Delgado that can be found at the town plaza.
Finally, I made it with the church which was built in 1845 and finished 33 years later. Not with my phonecam, but with my SLR. Not with the funeral people and the hearse, but with me alone. Actually, between me and the church is the highway going to Iloilo. At some point while doing the shoot, there were trucks passing by. I still prefer trucks over hearses.
Pavia Church
Pavia church was constructed out of red brick church of Byzantine style built by Spanish Agustinians during the middle of the Spanish era in the Philippines. During World War II, the church was used as garrison by the Japanese who drew guerilla raids that pockmarked the walls.
This photo here actually was my old take using my film SLR some few years back. Though Pavia Church is the last in my list, I wasn't able to make it due to the intermittent rain. I just finished my final shot with the Sta. Barbara Church when rain shower started to pour again. So, when a jeepney with signboard SM-Highway passed by, I didn't waste my time. I knew for sure I might still make it for Pavia Church if only it is along the highway, but it is not.
The Pasalubong Blues
It didn't take long and I was already inside SM Iloilo. I realized SM had their 3-day Sale so the mall was fully packed with lavish spenders. I supposed I would be in trouble squeezing myself in between throng of shoppers considering the luggage I was carrying with me. I was more concern about buying pasalubong for J1, J2 and M than my own comfort. So, I joined with packs of shoppers. It was just very hard for me with all my belongings dangling behind so I gave up.
Even while looking for a place to eat, I found out all fastfoods and restaurants to be jam-packed with mall-goers enjoying the Sale. However, I was able to find my own place at Kenny Rogers to where I finally ate my dinner (and I remember I wasn't able to eat lunch).
The pasalubong was finally bought at the airport during my return flight back to Manila the following day. They had their own version of Duty Free into which choices of souvenir items, T-shirts, and wide array of culinary delights were on display. Local delicacies that caught my attention are baye-baye, biscocho, inday-inday, binakol, bandi, piyaya, and pinasugbo. Downsizing the number of choice, I settled for six boxes of ube piyaya and four boxes of dried mangoes. Dried mangoes are actually Cebu's specialty and I love it, too. The reason for choosing such products is simply because of their stronger and attractive packaging. I also bought two pieces of T-shirt with prints depicting Iloilo.
dodongflores, welcome back!
This time I was making sure I would no longer experience the mix-up I encountered at the Manila airport. I was more careful the second time. While queuing for check-in, I read the bulletin that says any form of wires like headphones and mobile phone chargers are not allowed for hand carry. Further, while I was on the manual checking of my luggage, I was reminded by the lady guard who was checking my bag to remove any kind of battery from my hand carry. I was even asked to remove the battery currently loaded into my SLR. There was a feeling of disappointment in my part, because that simply means I can't take photograph aerial photos (and pretty stewardess, too!). Non-compliance with the regulation will lead me to further embarrassment so I knew the right thing to do is to obliged.
At the final security check, while most passengers were removing their shoes and belts, I didn't comply because I saw there's no point doing such as they didn't have X-ray scanners installed. Checking of the hand carried luggage are still being done manually. In fact, the security almost prick the screen of my PDA. He should be more careful next time. The body-frisker didn't question my not removing of shoes and belt, so I thought that was just fine.
When I reported to the office on Monday, a memo newly prepared was placed on top of my table. When I opened it up, it says: The board take notice of the uncontested diligence and competence you demonstrate in your present employ. As a reward, you are hereby appointed to report and relocate immediately to our processing plant in Antipolo. Congratulations!
It is sometimes very sweet reminiscing the past. I used to be walking exactly in this same place long years ago when I was in my first year and second year in college, in the middle of the night, at that. I was gunned several times by drunken notorious goons of a newly-constructed beach resort in our area but cheated death. When the only son of my former Grade V teacher (her husband is the school principal), a law student in Cebu, was shoot dead exactly the same time I should be walking into that place, my Mama decided that I should stay in the city. 
I decided to roam around our barrio to visit friends and to take photos around. It was good that we were accompanied by Jackie Chan, Marex' batch mate. We used Marex' motorized traysikad to tour around. By the way, motorized traysikad is the modified version of a three-wheeled pedicab (foot-powered), complete with suspension and planted a 9 horsepower general purpose engine. It looks similar to a typical tricycle.
We talked a lot of things, especially life in Manila. He himself is a former Manila boy, graduated at Guzmantech in Quiapo. We reminesced those days I could get drunk I can no longer manage myself he has to carry me piggyback and drive me home (a polio-victim carrying me on his back!). We remember those days he had to fetch me at the highway when I go home from school, after that fateful incident that I was chased by drunken goons onboard a Wrangler jeep with semi-automatic pistols on hand. For months, this friend had to patiently wait for me 10-11pm, in the coldness of the night, and mosquitoes that swarmed around him. He would even endure rain when it happened, and to think there was no waiting shed yet at that time to take shelter. Brod Vincent had always been a sacrificial friend to me. Oh, those are just sweet memories. We were separated in 1993 and only see each other again on this day. Yet, time then was very limited for the reunion of the two of us.
The rest of the day was spent strolling along the beach taking pictures, at the same time taking the opportunity of bragging off my telephoto lens to Jackie and Marex. Jackie was pretty amazed at how near is the fish cage when photographed when it is actually a few kilometers away from the shore. I supposed to use a tripod but its strength is not sufficient enough to resist the wind that blew head on towards the lens hood. So, I did the shoot handheld instead.
Agusan River was not at its best when we conduct the visit. Torrential rains from the highlands, like Agusan del Sur and three provinces of Davao had discolored the water into chocolate brown (Nay!). The sky was overcast - no summer blue sky and white-cotton cloud to be appreciated. But since we were there, we tried to take a couple of shots. Photographed Magsaysay Bridge from a distance using telephoto lens, and shoot those kids taking a bath in the river. We then took a passenger pump boat to Magallanes municipality to visit the Magellan Historical site and the Centennial Tree.
Photography is, unfortunately, a fairly expensive endeavour.
Tell a friend
